CSA Week 8

Vegetable List

Oh Boy! Beets!
Gonzales Cabbage
Savoy Cabbage
Mokum Carrots
Romanesco Cauliflower
Swiss Chard
Beatrice Eggplant
Fairy Tale Eggplant
Mediterranean Eggplant
Orion Fennel
Lacinato Kale
White Russian Kale
Kossac Kohlrabi
Lincoln Leeks
Ailsa Craig Sweet Onions
Bell Peppers
Hotties! Poblano, Green Chile, and Jalapenos
Conservor Shallots
San Marzanos
Sungolds
Tomatoes
PYO Herbs
PYO Flowers


Notes from the Farm

I feel the impermanence of the farm as much as I feel just about any part of this beast.
There is a this sense, that I'm always waking up from a dream, a reoccurring dream, the dream of this farm... where every part is familiar and current, but there is always a feeling that I'm missing something... that something is happening, that many things are happening just in the periphery of my sight... and everything feels the same, but at the same time, time is passing.
This week we said goodbye to Lily, and will soon be saying goodbye to Autumn. They both left such tremendous marks on this farm, in this community, and they will be missed. And just like that, we can smell the beginning of the end of the season... as chairs are left in place... as tasks are accomplished by smaller and smaller crews... as the fields are cleared and cleaned... and the dream of farm, this farm, makes a flash into my waking mind... seeing memories of the summer and planting, of popsicles and late evening swims, of new farmers and of new old friends.
Dreams are with us here as constant companions, and hopes. Halfway through the full season CSA it's hard to keep the nostalgia at bay... of what it took to get the season off the ground, of what it's going to take to see it through... of what it might look like when we inevitably ramp it back up again.
And I cherish the impermanence... I cherish the moment... even if it hurts just a little bit to let it go...
These are the days we'll remember, I have not doubt about that.


Recipes

Ricotta-Poblano Tacos
4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
2 fresh poblano chiles
1 cup ricotta cheese (the freshest you can find)
4 teaspoons chopped fresh herbs (such as cilantro, epazote, thyme, marjoram)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 or 4 radishes, thinly sliced or cut into matchsticks
A few tablespoons chopped white onion, for garnish
Big, beautiful sprigs of cilantro, for garnish

Make the filling. On an ungreased griddle or small, heavy skillet set over medium heat, roast the garlic, turning frequently, until blackened in spots and soft to the touch, about 15 minutes. Cool, peel off the papery skins, then finely chop. Roast the chiles directly over a gas flame or 4 inches below a very hot broiler until blackened on all sides, about 5 minutes for open flame, about 10 minutes for broiler.  Cover with a kitchen towel and let stand 5 minutes.  Peel, pull out the stem and seed pod, then rinse briefly to remove bits of seeds and stray bits of skin. Chop the chiles into 1/4-inch bits. In a medium-size bowl, mix together the garlic, ricotta, fresh herbs and two-thirds of the chopped chiles. Taste and season with the salt (usually about 1 teaspoon) and pepper (usually about 1/2 teaspoon). 
Serve.  Sprinkle the remaining poblano over the filling and set out with the radishes, onion, cilantro and warm tortillas for everyone to make tacos.
  
Green Chile-Leek Soup with Lima Beans and Smoked Meat

1/2 pound root vegetables (I like a mixture of 4 carrots and 2 parsnips)
6 ounces smoked meat, like smoked ham hock or pork shank, smoked turkey leg or smoked jowel
vegetable or olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
1 1/2 pounds (about 6 small) leeks, washed, roots cut off, cut in half lengthwise and each half sliced crosswise into ¼-inch pieces
3/4 to 1 pound (about 4-6) fresh Green Chiles, stemmed, seeded and sliced crosswise, about ¼-inch thick
1 pound bag frozen lima beans (defrosted)
1 quart chicken or vegetable broth
Salt
Handful cilantro or flatleaf parsley, for garnish
A few tablespoons tablespoons grated Mexican queso añejo or other garnishing cheese such as Romano or Parmesan, for serving

Heat a grill or grill pan to medium-high. Peel the root vegetables. Grill the vegetables to a nice char, turning regularly, about 2-3 minutes total. Remove from grill and set aside.
Using fingers to shred (or a knife to cut), break the ham hock (or one of its stand-ins) into bite-sized pieces. In a large (5- to 6-quart) soup pot, add about 2 tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat and add the smoked meat until crisp. With a slotted spoon, scoop the meat onto a paper towel to drain, leaving behind as much fat as possible.
Add the butter, leeks and chiles into the pot, cover and return to medium heat.  Let cook, stirring occasionally, until the leeks and chiles are very soft, about 10 minutes.  Uncover and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the leeks and chiles look thoroughly melted and are just beginning to brown, about 10 minutes more.  Scrape the leek mixture into a blender jar, add half of the bag of the lima beans (about 1 ¾ cup) and the broth.  Blend until smooth and return to the pan.
Add the remaining beans and the charred vegetables to the soup and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Taste and season with salt, usually a scant teaspoon depending on the saltiness of your broth.  Let simmer for a few more minutes, then ladle into warm soup bowls, sprinkle with the crispy meat and garnish with the herb leaves and cheese.



Roasted Eggplant Salsa with Tomato, Shallot, and Chipotle

1 pound (2 medium-large round or 4-5 plum) ripe tomatoes
1 medium shallot, cut into ½- inch-thick rounds
1 small (about ½ pound) eggplant
4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
2 canned chipotles en adobe, stems removed (or fresh jalapenos)
1 tablespoon chipotle canning sauce
About 1 tablespoon of chopped cilantro
About 1 tablespoon of fresh lime juice
Salt

Light a charcoal fire and let the coals burn until they are covered with gray ash, or heat a gas grill to medium. Lay the tomatoes, shallot, eggplant and garlic on the grill grate (use a perforated grill pan to keep the garlic from falling into the fire). Grill the vegetables, turning occasionally, until they are softened and blotchy-black all over. Timing will depend on the heat of your grill, but plan about 15 minutes for the garlic and shallot, a little longer for the tomatoes and probably 30 minutes for the eggplant (which will probably have collapsed on itself by this point). Set the vegetables aside and let cool.
Peel the tomatoes (if you wish), chop them into roughly ¼-inch pieces and scoop them into a bowl. Chop the shallot into ¼-inch pieces and add to the tomatoes.
Cut the eggplant in half and scrape out the flesh (leaving the charred skin behind) and scoop it into a blender jar. Peel the garlic, roughly chop it and add to the eggplant along with the chipotle chiles and the canning sauce. Blend until nearly smooth.
Add the eggplant mixture to the tomato and stir in as much cilantro and lime juice as you think the salsa needs. Season with salt—it usually needs about a teaspoon—and it’s ready to serve on practically anything grilled.

Roasted Cauliflower Tacos with Poblano Chile and Caramelized Onion

1 small head cauliflower, core cut out, the rest cut into small florets (a scant 3 cups)
Olive oil
Salt
2 medium fresh poblano chiles
1 large (8-ounce) onion, sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 cup Mexican crema , crème fraiche or heavy cream, plus more if needed
10 to 12 warm corn tortillas
A few tablespoons freshly grated Mexican queso añejo or other garnishing cheese such as Parmesan
A handful cilantro leaves, for garnish

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. In a large bowl, toss the cauliflower florets with olive oil and season with salt. Scoop cauliflower florets onto a rimmed baking sheet, slide into the oven and roast until tender and browned, about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, roast the poblanos directly over a gas flame or close under a preheated broiler, turning regularly until blistered and blackened all over, about 5 minutes over an open flame, 10 minutes under a broiler. Collect the chiles in a bowl, cover with a kitchen towel and cool until handleable. Rub off the charred skin, pull out the stems and seed pods and briefly rinse under cool water to remove bits of skin and seeds. Cut roasted chiles into small pieces.
Film a large (10-inch) sauté pan or skillet with oil and set over medium. Add the onion and cook, stirring regularly until richly browned, about 7 minutes. Stir in the poblano pieces and crema (or one of its stand-ins), then raise the heat to high.
When the mixture comes to a boil, stir in the cauliflower and let reduce quickly until thick enough to coat everything. Season with salt, usually about ½ teaspoon.
Scoop the mixture into warm corn tortillas and garnish with queso añejo and cilantro leaves.